The two great Haitian pilgrimages are Catholic and Vodou at once. Saut-d'Eau — Sodo — in July draws tens of thousands to a waterfall in the Central Plateau where the Virgin is said to have appeared in a palm tree in the nineteenth century, and where Ezili is understood to reside; pilgrims bathe under the falls with soap and leaves, and leave the clothes they arrived in behind in the water, having discarded what they came to shed. Plaine-du-Nord near Cap-Haïtien in July draws pilgrims for Saint James and Ogou, where people enter a mud pool associated with him. In both cases the same individuals attend mass and make Vodou offerings on the same trip, and the Catholic Church has an uneasy relationship with events it formally sponsors and cannot control. Nobody attending experiences the doubleness as a contradiction.