The urs is the death anniversary of a Sufi saint, and the word means wedding — the saint's union with God — which sets the tone: it is celebrated, not mourned. The tomb is washed, dressed in a new embroidered cloth, covered in rose petals and sandalwood; food is cooked in enormous cauldrons and given away; and qawwali, the devotional song form Amir Khusrau is credited with shaping in thirteenth-century Delhi, runs through the night. At Ajmer Sharif, the shrine of Muin al-Din Chishti, the urs draws hundreds of thousands and has drawn Hindu, Sikh and Christian visitors for centuries; Nizamuddin Auliya's shrine in Delhi holds qawwali every Thursday evening. This is where Islam in South Asia is most porous and most loved, and also where it is most attacked: shrines in Pakistan have been repeatedly bombed by militant groups, including Data Darbar in Lahore in 2010 and Sehwan Sharif in 2017, precisely because of what happens in them.