Kashrut lives in a kitchen, not in a book, and the physical arrangements are the religion. Two sets of dishes, two sets of cutlery, two sets of pots, two dish racks, ideally two sinks and in serious households two dishwashers; a third set for Pesach, or the same set kashered with boiling water. Meat requires slaughter by a trained shochet and salting to draw the blood, which for most people means buying it already done and paying a premium. The wait between meat and dairy is where community origin shows: Dutch Jews wait one hour, German Jews three, most Ashkenazi and Sephardi Jews six. Cheese, gelatin, wine and cheap vanilla essence all raise separate questions, which is what the certification symbols on the packet are for. The Pesach layer is the most work in the Jewish year — the house searched for crumbs, the kitchen turned over, and the Ashkenazi ban on kitniyot, rice and legumes, which Sephardi and Mizrahi Jews never observed and which produced a century of awkwardness in mixed Israeli families until the Israeli rabbinate and the Conservative movement both moved to permit it in 2015 and 2016. Levels of observance vary enormously and are the single clearest marker of where a Jewish household sits.