Pilgrimage is the part of Christian practice most obviously shaped by money and geography. The Camino de Santiago takes about five weeks on foot from the French border and issues a Latin certificate at the end; it collapsed to a few hundred walkers a year in the 1980s and now runs to hundreds of thousands, most of them not obviously religious. Lourdes receives around six million visitors annually, a large share of them ill or disabled, and maintains a medical bureau that has certified about seventy cures out of many thousands of claims. Lalibela's eleven rock-hewn churches were carved downward into the ground in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries so that Ethiopian Christians could make a pilgrimage without crossing hostile territory to Jerusalem — a new Jerusalem, complete with its own river Jordan. Jerusalem itself remains the destination that the others are substitutes for, and access to it has always depended on who held the city.