Ayyappa — the god you have to walk to.
Kerala's pilgrim god, and the one whose shrine is at the centre of India's hardest recent argument about religion and equality. His pilgrims address each other as Swami, because the vow makes each of them briefly him.
Ayyappa's shrine sits in a forest in the Western Ghats and receives one of the largest pilgrim flows on earth in its season, and the vow is unusually demanding: forty-one days of celibacy, abstinence, black or blue clothing, no footwear, no shaving, and the surrender of ordinary status — pilgrims call each other Swami and eat together regardless of caste, and Muslims and Christians make the climb too, with a mosque to Vavar, a companion figure, on the route. Against that egalitarian frame sits the exclusion of women between roughly ten and fifty, justified by the deity's status as a celibate. The Supreme Court struck the bar down in 2018 in a 4-1 judgment; Kerala erupted, women who entered were escorted by police and afterward ostracised, a review was admitted, and the questions were referred to a larger bench where they remain. In practice the shrine is as it was. It is the sharpest live collision in India between constitutional equality and a religious community's claim to run its own affairs, and Hindu opinion is genuinely and deeply split — including among women, many of whom campaigned to keep the bar.
The same ground, other faiths
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